Hugo’s
What go down Nuggets, welcome to Knuckle Up, where we go toe-to-toe with Houston’s dining scene, to see if they’re dishing out knock outs or tap outs. This round, we’re stepping into the ring with Hugo’s, an iconic Mexican restaurant in the heart of Montrose, where its moody ambience transports you south of the border—almost like you’re seated in a timeless hacienda, tucked deep in Oaxaca, enjoying the warm welcome of classic Mexican hospitality. It’s a place that radiates the essence of “old Mexico,” as if you’re gathering for a hearty meal under the watchful gaze of Frida Kahlo herself. Hugo’s isn’t your standard Tex-Mex restaurant; it’s a culinary love letter from Chef Hugo Ortega, a James Beard Award-winner, who’s fought his way up from humble beginnings in Mexico City to become one of Houston’s most celebrated chefs. Ortega brings authenticity and artistry to his menu, making every dish feel like an homage to Mexican tradition rather than a Tex-Mex remix.
A guy I decided to marry about 8 years ago (we’ll just call him Bear) and I found ourselves at Hugo’s after a sudden pivot of plans. I’ll admit, I was hesitant—Houston is filled to the brim with Mexican spots slinging queso, enchiladas, and salsa, and the thought of venturing out for another plate of cheese-covered comfort wasn’t sparking my appetite. But sometimes the best date nights happen on a whim, leading us straight to Hugo’s.
The night was sparked with a Paloma De Xoconostle, a prickly pear cocktail that was a fresh breeze of topo chico and tequila, with flavors of cactus fruit sweetness. If you’re a fan of a clean, refreshing start before jumping into spicier dishes, this one’s for you. We nixed the appetizers, since it was late and I was eager to get to the main event, so I ordered the Pescado En Mole Amarillo. The catch of the day, a beautifully flaky striped bass, arrived afloat a yellow mole sauce that was as vibrant as it was delicious. Each bite was balanced—the mole brought warmth and depth without overwhelming the tender, perfectly cooked fish, and the crisp veggies gave the dish an added freshness that had me leaving the plate as naked Mr. Bigglesworth.
Now, Bear —Tex-Mex snob that he is—went for the Enchiladas Del Dia, and I could tell from his first bite that Hugo’s had won him over. These short rib enchiladas weren’t about cheese overload or spice-for-spice’s sake; they were tender, flavorful, and seasoned to perfection. I snagged a bite, and it was pure, unadulterated comfort with a hit of rich, soulful flavoring. Bear, naturally, claimed he could make it “better,” (translation: add more cheese), but for me, it was a chef’s kiss moment. Tex-Mex fans, this is not your heavy, queso-covered plate—think of it as enchiladas that have gone through culinary training and know how to bring real flavor without the gimmicks. However, that is solely based on your preference of Tex-Mex vs authentic Mexican. Sign me up for authentic Mexican cuisine ALL DAY!
After such a satisfying meal, I had plenty of room for dessert, and I was itching for something with that classic Mexican twist. We ordered the Cafecito Martini and Churros Rellenos, and let me tell you, dessert was an experience. The espresso martini, made with tequila instead of vodka, was a dream, hitting the perfect note of bitter coffee, frothy sweetness, and smooth tequila.
Side note: this was THAT GIRL! Typically when I order an espresso martini, I ALWAYS request tequila in lieu of vodka, because I just prefer the finish of tequila, a good tequila.
The churros, filled with dulce de leche, were the crunchy-chewy dream I expect from churros, but they didn’t stop there—they came with a house-made chocolate ice cream that was so good, I mentally evicted the poor Campana Azul from our freezer on the spot. And, as if I hadn’t already reached peak chocolate bliss, a steaming mug of Mexican hot chocolate was whisked up tableside, adding that final layer of decadence to close out the night.
Hugo’s didn’t just win—it swept the match. With five out of five rounds firmly under its belt, this place is a heavyweight champion in my book. From authentic Mexican flavors to that genuine, soulful touch that Chef Ortega brings to the table, Hugo’s is the spot to beat for those who crave the real deal. And trust me, we’ll be back in the ring soon, gloves on, ready for another bout with the menu.
Hugo’s
Address: 1600 Westheimer Rd, Houston, TX 77006
Hours:
Mon: closed
Tues/Wed: 3:00-9:00pm
Thurs: 11:30am-9:00pm
Fri: 11:30a-10:30pm
Sat: 11am-10:30pm
Sun: 10am-9pm
Phone: (713) 524-7744
Menu: hugosrestaurant.net
Reservations: sevenrooms.com
Price per person: $30–50
